Troops on leave in Salonica
Article written for Bede Magazine describing troops having leave in Salonica
Down the Line
29th May 1918
Down the line! It may be that many will think this a curious heading. I imagine that some will wonder the meaning, and strive to fathom why “down” in preference to “up”.
Probably the phrase is not so common on the Western Front as in Macedonia. Blighty is much nearer Flanders and will be referred to more often than “down the line”. In fact, when thinking of leave, the soldier in this country is well advised if he erases ‘Blighty’ from his dictionary. It will save him a lot of calculation and I’m certain he will have a more contented mind.
Letters from home – what memories are conjured by that word – continually refer to men being on their second and sometimes third leave from France. How differently situated the forces are out here. It is no isolated case to find men in this area with three years’ continuous service abroad without having a holiday in England. Of course we all understand that there are exceptional difficulties which block the way to frequent leave from this country. Hence to get down the line is often a welcome change. Still there are numbers of men with two years’ service up here without having been able to see the brighter side of life in that time. Affairs have improved of late, and now small parties of five or six go to Salonica for five days’ respite. The rate of sending these is not fast, and for the newly joined draft, it is almost as well not to dream of Salonica leave.
Sometimes a chap is lucky enough to be sent to one of the many schools at the Base where instruction is given in special branches. Then, provided he has a good supply of money, he may have an enjoyable time.
The journey to Salonica is not quite so comfortable as travelling first-class on one of our home railways. Leaving the trenches, one usually stays the first night at the transport lines, unless he is happily situated near the railhead. Next morning, in many cases, a few hours’ tramp up hill and down dale brings him to a station. But generally he has invoked blessings on the inventor of packs, and said unkind words about the hills of Macedonia long before he sees the train. After waiting some time, Puffing Billy’s successor dashes up and the passenger takes his place on a wagon which may or may not be open to the wild winds. On reaching the next station, he is surprised – this is the first encounter with railways since landing – to find the heavy engines and wide ways as at home. Of course there are no carriages – wagons and trucks are always the order of the day. After getting his service signed by the R.T.O. [Railway Transport Officer], Tommy Atkins proceeds to make himself comfortable in one of the trucks; and reminds himself of the fact that ‘a third-class ride is better than a first-class walk.” The third stage is done in motor lorries, which sometimes were packed with as many as twenty inside – kits, equipment and all.
In spite of the inconveniences of travelling, there is much of interest on the way down. It is surprising the extent of land now being cultivated under military supervision. On the military farms maize and barley appear the chief crops, but where the natives still work on their own holdings much tobacco is grown. Like many other things farming implements are a long distance behind the times. I once saw manure for instance, being carted to the field in baskets hung like packs by the side of a mule. Bullocks are largely employed to draw road wagons and to plough. The grain is threshed by beating with a wooden stick resembling a flail, or by trotting a pony over and over the straw strewn on the ground. The wind plays an important part in winnowing the seed. All is thrown into the air and the lighter chaff is blown away while the grain falls in a heap.
And last of all, near the base, one frequently meets English nurses from the various hospitals. That does not appear much in itself. Yet when the fair sex have been conspicuous by their absence for one or even two years, then they do help to remind one of the civilisations and comforts awaiting in that dear old country called England.
David Brown (’07-’09).
Date: 29-May-1918
Author: David Brown
Where to find this: https://www.dur.ac.uk/resources/palace.green/collections/dc/The_Bede_v14-no3_August_1918.pdf
Contributed by Fiona Johnson
